Where is Customs, Where is Customs?

We need to get south fast so off to Guadalupe. The dense forested backdrop of the 4800’ volcanic mountain of La Soufriere or Old Lady as the locals call her is amazing.

In the morning, Angie set off to try to find the customs people to clear in; a very informal thing here in the French Islands. 2 hours and 3 miles later she returned, customs was only there on Wednesday's from 1-4. Ah, oh well lets just head south down the island to Pigeon Island, an underwater Cousteau National Park. The site where the “cattle” boats go had a couple of fish and was completely devoid of any underwater formations. As for the rest of the dive sites, you could “imagine” that they were once spectacular but now sadly are 90% dead. We anchored for the night in Anse Malendure outside the rows of painted fishing boats moored in the bay. No customs here either. Oh well, we’ll try again tomorrow before we leave Guadalupe!

In Basse Terre we try anchoring outside of the marina but the "cement" bottom was not working and the wind was blowing us on-shore. , So we went inside the unattended marina area looking for a spot to tie up for the night. Except for the collapsed pier with the rebar sticking out of it, every inch was covered with boats. Now it’s closing time and that means fuel dock. We finally find someone who spoke Spanish ,and he says it’s ok to stay the night there.

We invited local kids aboard to play on the halyards that evening. They tried to teach Parker and Sabrina some French with little success. The next morning, Angie again set off to find customs, this time with a good long book! She said, “I’m not coming back until I find them!” After she left, guess who showed up.. customs.. I was able to communicate that we’d been in search of them for days now and were wishing to clear in, and out, before leaving. When asked for our papers I explained that my wife had them and was waiting on their office door step. On board they all piled, “expertly” searching every “convenient” drawer and locker. So where is your wife now? Still waiting for you! Again, she isn’t leaving your office until you get there. Can you send someone up to get her. Oh, she’ll come back. No she won’t, she has a long book. An hour later in this waiting game they finally sent someone up to get her by car.

We cleared in…and out, got our duty free fuel saving over $100 and sailed away ….to Les Saintes of Guadalupe!