Tuesday, May 1, 2007


Les Saintes are a cluster of small arid mountainous islands with a couple of picturesque settlements. In the E/W pass there are a series of massive 2 bladed wind generators; the only ones we have seen in these Trade wind islands! Terre De Haut’s population is all descendents of Breton fisherman and Norman sailors. Anse du Borg looks like a Med style fishing village with hundreds of painted wooden fishing boats, charming architecture, and manicured landscaping.

I should leave well enough alone in my scientific reef observations, but this is what I saw. Just in front of our boat in the middle of the town right next to the ferry dock was a reef extending out from shore. On went the French style bathing suit, the fins and mask and in I went for a look. Hhhmm. Diesel fuel from the huge commercial boats on the surface, oh, raw sewage draining onto the reef from town, and what are these funky rectangular coral formations??....a pile of lead acid batteries!! This defies everything some might think is the problem. The reef was teeming with fish, vibrant corals and life despite the assault. The cause has to be more global!

We hiked to…another foooort! Fort Napoleon, just the guy Parker was studying about. The fort has been restored and maintained to preserve its history. Before entering we asked if it was in English (besides the welcome sign and exit) and the admission woman replied yes it was. Once inside the guided tour was only in French and “some” of the displays had loosely translated descriptions in English. At least they tried.

We had learned of the famous French/ British battle that took place here, one of the “greatest” or “not by the rule books” in history. Always consider the source of the written word. In our guide books we got the “British” version of how against all odds the British in an unconventional way cut through the French line of ships and “divided and conquered” the enemy. In the French museum, they “whined” of how the British didn’t play fair and they lost most of their fleet because of it. No offense, but it did sound like they really “had their knickers in a twist” as the English would say. Knickers are what they call underwear.

Dining ashore was fantastic fixed price French cuisine. That made it easier than accidentally ordering cows brains or tripe. The streets reminded me of a small French town. So as not to cause any customs problems, we had to be moving on.

No comments: